Entries by will

The Newfoundland Method

Disclaimers, contraindications, and warnings: the following is an argument, a loose collection of attempts at reasoning, an expression of my thoughts and, yes, opinions, about mixed climbing. The following is in no way, shape or manner intended to be unequivocal, inflammatory, dogmatic or closed-ended, nor is this intended as a model, archetype or rulebook. The […]

Culmination of a Vedauwoo Summer: the First Ascent of “Aluminum Overcast” (5.13b/c), Old Easy, Vedauwoo, WY

  This summer, I earned “honorary local” status at Vedauwoo, WY. Focusing on finger cracks, I ticked several of the classics test-pieces in June and July, culminating with the historically significant roof crack “Yasha Hai” (5.13a). Yasha Hai is a finger-sized roof crack that was among the first rock climbs in the world to be rated […]

Free Climbing the Moonlight Buttress

Spring arrived and the nerve damage from the savage Newfoundland winter subsided, gradually all of the feeling returned to my fingertips. I trained hard in the rock gym, trying to strengthen my fingers, weakened from a winter of clutching ice tools. I climbed in the familiar canyon of Rifle Mountain Park in Colorado, clipping bolts, […]